Last Visit: December 2023
My Rating: 10/10
Why: Perfect for those who love raw fish and exploring new flavors.
Visit Duration: From 8 AM to 3 PM
Website: https://www.tsukiji.or.jp/english/
Town: Tokyo
I had dreamed of a trip to Japan my entire life. There were countless things that fascinated me about the Land of the Rising Sun. From the most obvious—Ukiyo-e art, the culture of respect, discipline, and order, the millennia-old civilization, the films of Ozu and Kurosawa, the exotic allure of the country most distant from the West, both physically and ideologically—to the most contradictory aspects, such as the pride in its roots in a nation brutally colonized by the American victors, the pop and technological excesses of the country of minimalist art, or the rampant consumerism in the cradle of Zen Buddhism.
And, of course, there was the food: so exotic, succulent, different, creative—one of the few cuisines in the world that, for its delight, creativity, and richness, could rival my beloved Italian cuisine.
For decades, the Tsukiji fish market had been the epicenter of my yearning for Japan, the synthesis of my passion for food and my interest in Japanese culture.
Finally, in 2023, I fulfilled my lifelong dream.
And Tsukiji did deliver.
Once the beating heart of the global seafood trade, now a chaotic and captivating blend of tradition and modernity, Tsukiji enchants you from the very first moment. As you pass the sign and turn the corner into the first street winding between the shops, you are immediately struck by the challenge of defining it. Is it a colossal market or, more aptly, a small district dedicated not only to showcasing the finest fish Japan has to offer but also to a selection of the most enticing Japanese street food?
A Sensory Awakening
As you step inside, the first senses to be awakened are not taste and smell but hearing and sight. Even at 8 AM on an ordinary day, the market is alive with a throng of humanity: tourists queued up for the delicacy of the moment, locals shopping for their daily groceries, and workers bustling about in a cacophony of voices, kitchen sounds, and vehicles navigating the narrow streets.
It is only when you select your first bite (onigiri or tuna? Salmon roe or wagyu skewers?) and patiently make your way through the line that your taste buds begin their journey of indulgence—a day-long reverie of discovering the most diverse and delightful flavors.
It’s almost inevitable that the first choice will be tuna—not only because one of the first stalls near the entrance serves tuna sashimi, but because maguro is inextricably tied to the image of Tsukiji. This remains true even after the famous tuna auctions, long synonymous with Tsukiji, moved to Toyosu, leaving Tsukiji with "only" the outer market. (Don’t be fooled by those who claim Tsukiji is no longer worth visiting post-relocation. What remains—the outer market—is more than enough to satisfy even the most demanding tourists and the hungriest gourmets.)
The First Rule of Visiting Tsukiji: Start Early
Arriving at the market by 8 AM is almost a must. This ensures not only plenty of time to explore the vast market but also the chance to experience it during its peak activity. While it might feel unusual to start your day with raw tuna instead of a cappuccino and croissant, this tuna is transformative. Even the sight of the succulent cuts, arranged in varying shades of fattiness, is enough to make your mouth water. The first bite, bursting with protein and richness, sweeps away any hesitation and sets the stage for a day of indulgence and culinary adventure.
A Tip for First-Timers
First, have a light dinner the night before so you arrive at the market properly hungry. Second, resist the urge to overindulge at the first few stalls. The offerings at Tsukiji are vast, and even when focusing solely on tuna, there are endless variations to try, differing in cut, preparation, and quality. The best approach is to take small, deliberate bites, savoring each without giving in too quickly to the visual temptations.
Speaking of tuna, even though by the end of the day I didn’t find a rival to Maguro Koya, I had sampled extraordinary tuna from at least five different stalls. Each offered a taste of a quality that, in the West, we can only dream of experiencing. Tsukiji’s culinary treasures reward those who pace themselves and explore with curiosity.
The Astonishing Quality of Tsukiji's Tuna
The quality of tuna on offer at Tsukiji is nothing short of breathtaking. From one stall to the next, you can sample the most prized cuts, such as the renowned otoro, rich and buttery, melting in your mouth like a dream; chutoro, an intermediate cut that balances sweetness with texture; and akami, the leanest meat, ideal for those who prefer more straightforward, clean flavors. Each slice resembles a small work of art, meticulously cut with millimeter precision by skilled vendors wielding razor-sharp knives with an almost choreographed grace.
A pro tip for tuna lovers: Focus on the fattier cuts of tuna, such as otoro, which are a rare treat in the West and difficult to find at such exceptional quality. Avoid sampler platters that include all cuts; while they offer variety, they often fill you up with less desirable portions, leaving less room for the truly extraordinary delicacies. Prioritizing these richer, more indulgent cuts is the best way to savor the essence of Tsukiji.
After kicking off your day with the inevitable first tastings, it’s time to dive into the bustling alleys that divide the market in a grid-like fashion. The briny scent of fresh fish mingles with the smoke from grills charring eel skewers; the sharp aroma of freshly grated wasabi blends with the sweet fragrance of tamagoyaki, the traditional Japanese rolled omelet.
Rubber-booted men with rough hands and weathered faces shout out prices in a Japanese that sounds more like a coded chant than a language. Signs written primarily in kanji spark curiosity about products that often defy easy identification: what could those dark brown ellipses be? A type of chestnut? Shellfish? Perhaps some sort of nutmeg?
A tip for adventurous palates: be brave and venture beyond the familiar. Tsukiji is brimming with stalls offering tuna, salmon, sushi, and onigiri—delicious, yes, but sticking to these obvious choices may fill you up too quickly, leaving neither appetite nor physical space to explore the more unique and exotic offerings. The market is a treasure trove of regional delicacies waiting to be discovered.
Moreover, not every stall at Tsukiji delivers high-quality goods, as the market has a strong tourist and commercial focus. While outright low-quality offerings are rare in Japan (and virtually nonexistent in Tsukiji), it’s still possible to indulge in average-grade tuna or salmon—no different from what you might find back home. This can lead to missed opportunities to delve deeper into the true essence of Japanese cuisine. Stay curious, and prioritize the distinctive and authentic over the familiar and predictable.
A Palette of Flavors
After starting the day with the rich, buttery flavor of tuna, my attention shifted to the crisp salinity of salmon roe, offered in overwhelming abundance at Tsukiji. Each bite was a burst of flavor, encapsulating the essence of the sea in its most indulgent form.
Venturing into the first alley on the left after entering the market, I discovered an omakase stall specializing in various types of sea urchin. This delicacy, a perfect blend of sweetness and briny oceanic notes, seemed to capture the very breath of the ocean itself. Each spoonful was a revelation, reaffirming Tsukiji as a paradise for those eager to explore the purest and most evocative flavors of the sea.
In a quieter area, away from the bustling crowds, you’ll find a few specialized shops dedicated to katsobushi—dried, fermented, and smoked tuna, shaved into delicate flakes used in broths and as a flavorful topping. Watching the shaving process in real-time is one of Tsukiji’s understated daily spectacles. The artisan's hand moves in a steady rhythm, transforming what looks like a fossilized piece of wood into feather-light flakes that release a smoky, complex aroma. Few images capture the essence of Japanese cuisine as vividly as the vast rows of wooden boxes filled with these ethereal tuna flakes. Their presence evokes the heart of Japanese culinary tradition, a reminder of the meticulous craftsmanship that underpins even the simplest dishes.
The Art of Knives and Craftsmanship
Tsukiji is more than just food; it’s a perpetual fair of everything related to cuisine and home dining, showcasing the finest craftsmanship for both domestic and professional use.
You could easily spend hours exploring the magnificent array of ceramics: sake cups in every conceivable shape and style, ramen bowls, and spoons for udon. And, of course, the knives—Japan’s hallmark of artisanal excellence.
I had planned my trip to Japan with the intent of bringing home a high-quality kitchen knife. After thorough research, I had resolved to purchase it in Tokyo's Kappabashi district, where an entire street is dedicated to kitchen goods, with numerous stores specializing in premium knives. Having visited both Kappabashi and Tsukiji, I’d recommend Kappabashi for items like knives, ceramics, or sushi chopsticks. It’s far less chaotic and touristy than Tsukiji. That said, Tsukiji also offers an exceptional selection of premium knives.
During a conversation with the chef of Nishi Azabu Kamikura, I learned that the knives sold in Tsukiji’s top-tier shops are considered the pinnacle of quality by Japanese sushi chefs. By contrast, Kappabashi’s offerings are often aimed at European chefs—an observation delivered with what I suspect was subtle Japanese irony, implying that Kappabashi’s products are somewhat inferior compared to those found in Tsukiji.
Strolling through the alleys of Tsukiji, a visit to the knife shops is a must. The knives gleam under the lights, their blades emanating an almost mystical aura. Each piece is unique, handcrafted by master artisans who dedicate years to honing their craft. Visitors can even watch live demonstrations: a craftsman sharpening a blade on a whetstone, moving with a focus that borders on meditation.
These knives are not merely tools; they are symbols of ancient knowledge passed down through generations. Purchasing one of these masterpieces is more than just an investment—it’s a way to carry home a fragment of Japanese culture and tradition.
Wagyu Beef: A Culinary Jewel
Anyone who thinks Tsukiji is just about raw tuna and sushi is sorely mistaken. The selection of meat rivals that of seafood, with wagyu beef taking center stage.
Renowned for its perfect marbling, wagyu is proudly displayed in refrigerated cases throughout the market. The white streaks of fat interwoven with red meat resemble an abstract painting, promising a tenderness and flavor rarely matched anywhere in the world. Each cut tells a story of meticulous dedication: cattle raised with extraordinary care, fed special diets, and even massaged to ensure the ultimate quality.
While Tsukiji offers no subpar products, its commercial and tourist-oriented nature means that excellence must be sought out with care. Falling into the trap of sampling relatively mediocre offerings is an easy misstep that might cause you to miss the opportunity to experience the best Japan has to offer.
Before my trip, I watched numerous YouTube videos recommending specific stalls at Tsukiji for the best sushi or wagyu. Unfortunately, I underestimated the importance of planning ahead, relying instead on serendipity. In hindsight, just as I found the best raw tuna in Nara rather than Tsukiji, I can confidently say the best wagyu I tasted was in Osaka’s bustling Dotonbori district and Kyoto’s Nishiki Market.
So, if you’re preparing to visit Tsukiji, my advice is to do your research in advance. With such an overwhelming variety of options, uncovering true excellence requires forethought. Whether it’s wagyu or another specialty, arriving informed will ensure you don’t miss the culinary gems hidden within the market.
The Sweetness of Mochi
To balance the richness of savory and umami flavors, Tsukiji naturally offers a variety of traditional Japanese sweets. Among these, mochi—soft glutinous rice balls filled with red bean paste, matcha cream, or chocolate—are a must-try treat. Each mochi resembles a small full moon, with a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Eating one feels like a brief pause in the bustling market, a moment of pure sweetness that refreshes the spirit.
When it comes to sweets, however, the offerings at Tsukiji are more of a complementary feature than a main attraction. In a market so vast, where nearly every staple of Japanese cuisine can be found, it’s inevitable that desserts, particularly mochi, are included. Yet, the number of confectionery stalls is relatively small, and the quality is typically average.
For truly exceptional mochi and other Japanese sweets, you’ll need to venture elsewhere. In my experience, Nara stands out as the destination for the finest mochi, where the craftsmanship and flavors reach an entirely different level. While Tsukiji provides a convenient opportunity to sample these iconic treats, it is not the pinnacle of Japan’s sweet offerings.
The Dance of Chaos
Walking through the alleys of Tsukiji feels like stepping into a chaotic yet perfectly choreographed dance. Electric carts zip by at astonishing speeds, narrowly missing pedestrians with surgical precision. Each stall is its own microcosm: alien-like octopuses, crabs the size of small dogs, and eels writhing in water basins as if resisting their inevitable fate.
Many of the products are exotic and enigmatic, and communication with vendors, often in halting English, does little to clarify their mysteries. At times, it’s easy to feel like Bill Murray in Lost in Translation—disoriented and captivated all at once.
Yet, this sense of bewilderment is part of Tsukiji’s charm. It’s not about understanding everything; it’s about surrendering to the experience. Embrace the chaos, let go of the need to control or fully comprehend, and allow yourself to be swept away by the market’s unique rhythm. It’s this immersion into the unknown that makes a visit to Tsukiji so unforgettable.
Between Tradition and Modernity
Tsukiji is deeply symbolic. On one hand, it embodies the most traditional aspects of Japan: a place where trade skills are passed down through generations and where the quality of fish is a point of national pride. On the other, it mirrors Japan’s relentless modernization: a market that, even after the wholesale section moved to Toyosu, remains an icon of gastronomic consumerism.
This duality is mirrored by the city that hosts it. Tokyo is a place where Shinto shrines coexist with towering skyscrapers, and where the meditative stillness of a Zen garden can be interrupted by the rumble of a high-speed train. Tsukiji, with its blend of chaos and beauty, serves as a perfect microcosm of this tension.
Ethical Considerations
It’s impossible to visit a place like Tsukiji without reflecting on the ethical implications of what you see. The unbridled consumerism, overfishing, and controversial practices such as whaling are issues that demand serious thought. Yet, there is another side to the story: the dedication of the vendors, the artistry behind every dish, and the almost reverent respect for the ingredients.
For anyone who loves the sea, encountering whale bacon at a stall can be jarring. To experience Tsukiji fully, however, one must momentarily suspend ethical concerns and surrender to the indulgence. Tsukiji is not just a market—it’s a sensory experience, a journey into the living heart of a culture. Like any journey, it requires an open mind and a willingness to go with the flow.
Conclusion: Today, No Moralizing
At the end of my visit, with my hands still slick with eel fat (the delectable unagi—don’t miss it!) and the refreshing taste of green tea lingering on my palate, I came to a realization: Tsukiji is a celebration of life in all its contradictions. It’s Western consumerism interpreted through the lens of Eastern tradition. It’s the unrestrained indulgence of Rabelais and the excess of Marco Ferreri’s La Grande Bouffe, set against the backdrop of cherry blossoms.
So, no moralizing today. Tsukiji demands that you close your eyes and open your mouth. It’s not a place for restraint; it’s a feast for the senses, a celebration of abundance, and a reminder that sometimes, surrendering to excess can be its own form of reverence.
Practical Tips for Visiting Tsukiji
If you’re planning to visit Tsukiji, careful preparation will enhance your experience.
Arrive Early: Ideally, get there before 8 AM to soak in the market’s authentic atmosphere when it’s bustling with activity.
Wear Comfortable, Waterproof Shoes: Some areas may have wet and slippery floors.
Bring Cash: Many vendors do not accept credit cards.
Expect Queues: Popular restaurants, especially those serving ultra-fresh sushi, often have long lines.
Explore the Side Alleys: Don’t miss the shops selling kitchen utensils, spices, and traditional sweets.
Respect Local Rules: Avoid obstructing workers, don’t touch products without permission, and observe the market with courtesy.
Practical Information
Nearest Metro Station: Tsukijishijo (Oedo Line).
Closing Days: The market is closed on Sundays and select Wednesdays throughout the year.
Take your time to savor every moment in this unique culinary and cultural destination!
Disclaimer
To create this post, the following items were consumed: 700 grams of tuna, 2 onigiri, one okonomiyaki, 6 sea urchins, 300 grams of salmon roe, 6 scallops, 4 wagyu skewers, 4 mochi, 6 unagi skewers, one sea urchin bun, an unspecified quantity of salmon sashimi, two wasabi roots (later forgotten in the hotel minibar), numerous samples of bluefish labeled with ideograms resembling those seen on the glutes of certain gym-goers, and one strange item resembling a chestnut but more likely a plum, which was immediately spat out.
The caloric balance between food consumed and calories burned while exploring the market was net positive by 5,414 calories. Japan’s GDP increased by 0.00014%.